Sunday 21 July 2013

The tale of two wholecut shoes

Wholecut shoes are something that I have a soft spot for. It comes in strongly behind my desire for double monk straps. Of course I do not rush out and buy every nice pair I see as that would be unhealthy. Anyway, wholecut shoes are shoes that are constructed using a single piece of leather for the uppers and only the tongue is a separate piece of leather. The great thing about wholecuts is that it shows off the shoes and the leather itself and not any fancy patterns or cuts. In terms for use in formal situations a plaintoe balmoral or even a captoe balmoral is more formal than these. But there is a simple elegance to them and I do believe that one could wear a black pair to a formal event without much fuss. Anyway........

The two pairs shown are quite unique in my opinion. The one to the left is the one I commissioned from a shop right here in Kuala Lumpur. It is bespoke as my feet were measured for its fit. It has been mentioned in an earlier posting and to answer a reader's question on its durability it is doing fine. I have been wearing them at least once in every three weeks and it is fine. The usage of the very very traditional nail construction instead of the usual sewn or glued method seems to have no detriment at the moment with the exception of the stiffness of its sole. It takes awhile longer than usual to break in. So aside from the leather quality I am extremely pleased with this pair made especially for me. Bespoke can be very affordable in these parts of the world.

The pair to the right and pictured above of it is an Italian wholecut marked as Jobson's. It has been with me for about twelve years and gets used about once every two months or so. This pair is in one of those that sits on  a wider than usual shoe rotation of mine. The leather feels good after all these years and takes up a decent shine even with not much work put into it. The best. Thing about decade old shoes that have regular maintenance is that there is a beautiful natural patina built into it due to years of polishing. It still looks marvelous and should last for years. It has only gotten a new vibram heel and is still on its original sole. 

Rotation does wonders to longevity of shoes.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Thanks for this Rigval!

We've just put together a bit of a guide on wholecut shoes - https://tblon.com/blogs/news/wholecut-shoes.

Would be nice to get your input on it. Have you seen Thomas Bird Before?

Rigval Reza said...

James. I have not heard or seen of Thomas Bird before this.
The shoes are generic Italian shoes with little hand finishing.
Good for those starting out but a little over priced compared to
what I can get my hands on over here in terms of hand finishing
and even in terms of construction.

Checked out the blog post you mentioned.
It's alright. Good for those without knowledge.

Regards,

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