Kulitkraf officers shoe - the cheapest Goodyear welted shoes you can buy. But don't.

The pair of shoes pictured herein are undoubtedly the cheapest pair of Goodyear Welted shoes that you can purchase in Malaysia and to some extant, anywhere in the world. They are made by Kulitkraf and are actually official issue shoes for officers in the Royal Malaysia Police and the Malaysian Armed Forces too. Somehow, the issued shoes are full brogues in either patent leather for use during full dress functions and these ones that are made out of bookbinder/corrected grain leather. The other ranks (non-officer) get normal cap toe oxfords that use stuck on construction.Why the officers don't get the usual captoes I don't have a clue but if you do frequent the Ministry of Defense located along Jalan Semarak or Bukit Aman (the Police HQ), you'd notice most officers using these issued shoes and the other ranks using basic cap toes.

There are two or three large manufacturers or providers of shoes for the military and police. One is Sepatu Timur and the other that I know of is Kulitkraf. Sepatu Timur has its factory in Kelantan with an office in Kampung Baru  if I am not mistaken. But they do not usually sell their shoes to the general public. I suppose its because their factory is far from the capital. However, Kulitkraf has their manufacturing facilities right at my doorstep in Petaling Jaya. They also sell their stuff, the shoes mentioned above as well as combat boots at a very reasonable price.

And I have been reading (or just trolling without posting) on local men's shoe forum or two over the past few years (one is over at the Lowyat.net if I am not mistaken) where they claim that this shoe being Goodyear welted and all is the best shoe to get at this price. The price is actually fantastic for something welted - RM130 and below (pre-GST) for a pair. 

I have a pair and have owned this one for about three years or so and have only worn it twice or trice. I bought them because I was curious about how it fits or whether it was good value for one's money.  I suppose since I own a pair it is my duty to write a report about them. 

So question is why haven't I actually worn them more often? Well, for Goodyear welted shoes, they are uncomfortable. Somehow the ball of the foot isn't cushioned enough and it actually does not absorb shocks well enough. It's as if the balance of the shoe rests on the ball of the feet instead of more on the heel or all over. If you look at the outsole, the heel is made out of rubber and the sole, leather. Not a high heel, but somehow the shoe's balance makes me rest on the ball of my feet more than on its heel. Whatever it is, this Goodyear welted shoe if not comfortable. Supposedly an inner welt/midsole adds some extra cushioning, but this does not. In fact, my many of my blake stitched shoes are more comfortable than this. They are my correct size 8 1/2.

Secondly the shape of the shoe.The shoe's shape is very, very traditional. It has a bulbous and short front. It may have the traditional brogueging, but its shape is short and stubby. The sole is wide and flat. There is no waist at all too. If you thought that some Church's, Barkers and Loakes are round and bulbous, this beats 'em all. They aren't that nice to look at. They function but that's about it. I tried to improve its looks by using flat laces on them. But they only look slightly better. It's the shape of the shoe that is the issue in the first place.

Thirdly, the quality. It is a RM130 shoe. No doubt about it. From the bad stitching on the sole, leather used and how it fits . If you really want 'good' corrected grain leather, than I suppose you could go buy a pair of RM1,500+ Church's. The leather correction can be seen in certain areas of the shoe and looks like it really is painted on and will eventually peel off. So don't buy corrected grain unless you don't have a choice. I suppose when one is used to wearing a heck of a lot of hand finished shoes you do become slightly of a snob when it comes to shoes.

So there you have it. Kulitkraf Officer's Brogues. Cheap. Super cheap. But their glued construction cap toes are a more comfortable shoe. I know as I used to own a pair (and gave them away to my wife's uncle who is a policeman). That is under RM90 and better than any BATA shoe on sale today. And better than this pair of Goodyear welted shoes too.

I suppose the lesson for today is that a shoe that is Goodyear welted is no guarantee for quality or comfort. Even blake (like the brown pair below) or glued constructed shoes are comfortable. Of course, that old adage, you pay peanuts, you get monkeys. I suppose you need to spend more for your shoes for better quality. I have to say that if you are serving with the government and given these to wear, by all means wear them. They're free. If you just want a cheap pair to knock about, go ahead. But if you want to impress those shoe snobs or sartorialists, then don't.