Tuesday, 8 December 2015

The cycle of suit jacket styles - 1950s, the late 1980s, the early 1990s and today

The photo above is taken from voxsartoria's fabulous website about style. It is from 1955 and you can see musician Glenn Gould in a navy blue Double Breasted blazer/sports jacket and a pair of very loose fitting trousers. At first I thought this was from a Giorgio Armani advertisement from the late 1980s or early 1990s


The ones you see above and below are from 1989 and 1990 respectively. You can see the similarities in terms of the very loose fitting cut. The baggy pleated trousers, and the longer length jacket. Maybe the late-1980s had the very low gorge set into the lapel. The jacket in the 1990 advert may have the lapel gorge moved higher up but the cut is still super loose and still has the jacket length longer than what is considered as correct today. Take a look at the trousers and you can see a high rise, double reverse pleats and a loose fit. I think the one below has a lot in common with 1955.


So 1955 is actually like 1989 or 1990. Can we predict another round of loose fitting clothing? I hope not and yet I also hope there will be an offshoot in the current trends for this older style to make a comeback.

The only issue with this loose fitting style makes large people even larger and small people look tiny in their large suits. But they are very comfy if it is in the correct materials. A loose fit means a lot of freedom in some ways. Whatever the case, the Armani photos capture a sense of style. A certain romanticism. 

These days Ready to Wear Armani is more or less into the current form fitting trend with short jackets that do not cover one's behind (and actually meant for slimmer bodies obviously). But their trousers seem to have a looser fit in the crotch area than some of the current trend in terms of trousers. 

Armani FW2015

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