Friday 16 September 2016

The Aloha Shirt and the unique 'Reverse Print' Aloha Shirt


The Aloha or the Hawaii type patterned shirt is a staple in Hawaii where it is even allowed as 'businesswear' in most cases except the most formal events on the island. It is actually quite like the batik shirts we use in Malaysia and in Indonesia. The short sleeve version of course.
The main difference between an Aloha shirt and a Batik shirt are slight. The aloha shirt usually has a camp collar where the collar does not have a collar band before being attached to the body of the shirt. It therefore lays flat on the shoulders in a casual sort of way. It is usually made from rayon, rayon mix, cotton or linen. Rayon is a breathable material that is man-made from wood cellulose. You could say that it is a natural fabric in some ways. The buttons on an authentic Aloha shirts are usually made out of coconut shell, giving it a more rustic look.

Most of the really trad versions are in rayon as the shirt was first marketed by Japanese and Chinese immigrants in the 1930s who made them using this type of cloth. Batik here is usually cotton, satin silk, crepe silk, cotton linen or linen (with raw silk used by the Indonesians too). The length of the batik shirt is usually longer than an Aloha shirt where it usually covers the behind most of the time. 

Dieworkwear has a nice article about the return of the Aloha shirt which explains a lot about the current status of such a shirt in menswear. But do note that the shirt is actually very suitable for our all-year round hot and humid climate much like the batik shirt. On a personal note, I currently have about five or six Aloha shirts that mixes with my batik print (and hand drawn) shirts as well as a few camp shirts with paisley prints for my ultra casual days.

Another important factor which I would like to highlight is the fact that according to what is usually written about them, it is the tourists (visitors)who often wear designs of many bright colors while the locals (those who have lived there for years or the Hawaiians themselves seem to prefer less busy patterns. The shirts worn by the locals are often constructed with the printed side on the interior, resulting in a muted or softer colored exterior. These are called "reverse print". Those not familiar with this practice may consider it to be a manufacturing defect as the shirt appears to be sewn together inside-out. 

I happen to have two of these which are made for the Japanese market (as the sizes are smaller - see the pics above). Large is more like Medium but the fit is therefore modern on a chubby guy like me. Take a look at the photos to see the reverse print Aloha shirts. It does make it understated in many ways. Still cheerful, but not an 'in-your-face' kinda cheerful. So note the details of a very trad Aloha shirt - reverse print, camp collar, coconut shell buttons (slit and sides - not really visible). 

 Of course, I still wear the usual normal usual loud prints on the outside like the one above. I'm in Malaysia, not Hawaii and here the batik can sometimes be loud when the mood suits you.


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